MAKING YOUR OWN

HOLMES STEREOVIEWS

Homes stereoviews are a fascinating subject. From the late 1850's through the 1920's they provided a way that the average person could explore the world from the comfort of their home. It is almost as if they functioned as a Victorian version of the Internet! Although I have some antique views in my collection, as well as some reproductions, I'm not really a collector. Instead, I am interested in viewing my own photos in the Holmes format, as I consider it to be a nice, low-tech, relaxing way to view stereo images.

The conventional approach to making Holmes views is simple but tedious:

• Have prints made of the stereo pair in the proper size
• Align the prints to assure vertical registration and the proper placement of the stereo window
• Trim the prints to shape
• Mount the pair to card stock

Detailed descriptions of each step (along with excellent illustrations) can be found on the Skep 3D website: Mounting Holmes Stereoviews

 If you follow the instructions, you will get great views every time, assuming you had a good stereo photo to begin with. I've done it that way numerous times, but recently I decided it was time to upgrade the process and let the computer handle the detail work. The end-result of my tinkering was a procedure that uses the computer to set up and even print the final view. The results are quite impressive, despite the fact that this sample is shown at only about 1/4 of its actual resolution:

This particular page actually describes two approaches to making Holmes stereoviews, but most of the steps described here are common to both methods. The differences between the two methods will be described when we get to the point where you have to decide on one approach or the other.

Some Image Files You Will Need

In order to proceed from this point, you need to download the holmes.exe file from my web-site. Just click on the link and, when prompted for where to save the file on your system, put it in the directory that contains your stereo editing software. Once the file is on your system, click on START, then PROGRAMS, double-click on the DDS directory folder, and then double-click on holmes. The file is a self-extracting ZIP file that will add two image files to your DDS directory:

• holmescard.bmp - a blank stereoview card
• 4x6.jpg - a blank 4 x 6-inch print card
• arches.bmp - a mask for the arched tops of the image pair (used for color image sets)
• archesc.bmp - identical to the above but used for black and white (grayscale) image pairs
• 1860_mask.jpg - a mask for precision sizing of your stereo pairs

You will use most these files each time you construct a stereoview. Actually, construction is a pretty good metaphore, since we will build the stereoview image from a variety of image components.

The procedures that I will describe here require a reasonably good image processing program. I will describe the steps generally as they would be executed using the Adobe Photoshop Elements software. More comprehensive non-Adobe products tend to mmic or clone Photoshop functions/capabilities, so you should be able to perform equivalent operations.

STEP 1. Basic Stereo Editing

The first step is to use your basic stereo editing software to combine your image pair, correct any vertical alignment errors, and set the stereo window. This is generally easier to do using a grayscale anaglyph display. Once you have set-up the pair, save it as a side-by-side/parallel image in the JPEG format with minimal compression (highest JPEG quality). I scan my Realist slides and negatives at approximately 3000 x 3000 pixels, so the raw files are very large (40-50 Mbytes). With minimal JPEG compression, they typically "shrink to the 5-10 Mbyte range. I archive these raw files to CD-ROM. Here is what one of these files looks like, with, of course, a huge reduction in image size to keep download times to a minimum.

STEP 2.  Precisely Re-size the stereo pair
 

• OPEN the image pair with your photo software

• Click IMAGE => RESIZE and set the image WIDTH to 1860 pixels while retaining the image aspect ratio/proportions

While this precisely sizes the width, the height of the pair will depend on what you had to do to set the stereo window. In order to assure a constant image height, we will use a mask to precisely trim the image:
 

• Click SELECT => ALL => EDIT => COPY to copy the image to the clipboard and click on the upper right corner [X] to clear the screen.

• OPEN the 1086 Mask image

• Click EDIT => PASTE to drop the stereo pair onto the mask

• Click LAYERS => MERGE DOWN to trim the image to the mask

At this point the image will look very similar to its original form, except that it will be precisely 1860 x 950 pixels in size.

STEP 3. Add the Arches

You don't really have to do these steps if you are content with basically square views. I take the time as it adds to the authentic look of the images.

• With the image still on the screen, OPEN the Archesc file

• Click SELECT => ALL => EDIT => COPY to copy the arches template to the clipboard

• Click EDIT => PASTE to drop the arches onto the view

• Use the MOVE tool to slide the Arches to the top of the image:

• Use the MAGIC WAND tool to outline the white area under the left arch

• Click EDIT => CUT to reomove the white area

• Repeat the previous two steps with the white area under the right arch

• Click LAYERS => MERGE DOWN

• Set the foreground color to WHITE

• Use the PAINT BUCKET tool to change the magenta arches to white:

At this point you have the basic image pair you will use for both approaches to making your stereoviews.. For the moment, save the image under any convenient filename - use the JPEG format with minimal compression/highest quality.

Method 1: Using 4 x 6 prints

Probably the easiest approach to making your cards is to have the pictures printed (4 x 6-inch format) at your local one-hour processor, trim the print, and mount it to a pice of card stock cut to the proper size.

• OPEN your image file

• Click SELECT => ALL => EDIT => COPY to copy the image to the clipboard

• Click on the upper-right corner [X] to clear the screen

• OPEN the 4x6.jpg  image file

• Click EDIT => PASTE to drop the image on the 4 x 6 layout

• Use the MOVE tool to position the stereoview just far enough above the bottom edge to permit a text label if desired.

• Use the TEXT functions to add a label (one side only) if desired.

At this point you can save the image in JPEG format (minimal compression/highest quality) and take the file to your local one-hour outlet for printing like any other digital image. A also get excellent results at home using an HP Photosmart 375 printer dedicated to making 4 x 6 prints.

When you get the prints back, use the lower edge as a reference and trim 0.5 inches (a paper cutter works best) off the top edge to create a 3.5 x 6-inch image pair:

Mounting the Views

I use a paper cutter (about $25 at most office supply outlets) to cut out the view sets. With a little care you can view them as-is (very easy with a Lorgnette), but for practical ease of use they should be mounted to card stock. Most art-supply or picture-framing stores will stock matte board. You should select archival acid-free card stock for your views as you do not want them to deteriorate with age. Not all matte stock is acid-free, so check with the store when making your selection. I have the shop cut the large pieces of stock into 7-inch-wide strips. At home I use the paper cutter to shear-off 3.5 inch sections to make the card backing. I use 3M spray Photo Mount adhesive, sprayed on the back of the trimmed print,  to mount the view to the card backing, re-trimming edges with the paper cutter (after the adhesive has set) if required. The only caution here is to center the print as carefully as you can while keeping the lower edge of the print aligned with the lower edge of the card. I butt both pieces against the smooth surface of a table top or a piece of glass to assure proper alignment.

Method 2. Printing the Entire Card Layout

This method requires that you have a printer that will do a high-quality job when printing photographic images on photo-quality printing paper. To see if the printer you have (or one you would like to purchase) is up to the task, look at a high-quality print sample with a magnifying glass. If you can see obvious printing artifacts, look for another printer or use the 4 x 6 print option described above.

Here is what you need to do:

• OPEN your image
• Click SELECT => ALL => EDIT => COPY to copy the image to the clipboard.
• Clear the image from the screen
• OPEN the holescard image file:

• Click EDIT => PASTE to drop the image onto the card
• Click LAYERS => MERGE DOWN:

At this point, labeling text can be added (under one side only) if desired.

Mounting the Views

I use a paper cutter (about $25 at most office supply outlets) to cut out the view sets, using the corner registration marks as a guide. With a little care you can view them as-is (very easy with a Lorgnette), but for practical ease of use they should be mounted to card stock.

Most art-supply or picture-framing stores will stock matte board. You should select archival acid-free card stock for your views as you do not want them to deteriorate with age. Not all matte stock is acid-free, so check with the store when making your selection. I have the shop cut the large pieces of stock into 7-inch-wide strips. At home I use the paper cutter to shear-off 3.5 inch sections to make the card backing. I use 3M spray Photo Mount adhesive, sprayed on the card stock, to mount the view to the card backing, re-trimming edges with the paper cutter (after the adhesive has set) if required.