MAKING YOUR OWN

HOLMES STEREOVIEWS

Holmes stereoviews are a fascinating subject. From the late 1850's through the 1920's they provided a way that the average person could explore the world from the comfort of their home. It is almost as if they functioned as a Victorian version of the Internet! Although I have some antique views in my collection, as well as some reproductions, I'm not really a collector. Instead, I am interested in viewing my own photos in the Holmes format, as I consider it to be a nice, low-tech, relaxing way to view stereo images.

The conventional approach to making Holmes views is simple but tedious:

• Have prints made of the stereo pair in the proper size
• Align the prints to assure vertical registration and the proper placement of the stereo window
• Trim the prints to shape
• Mount the pair to card stock

Detailed descriptions of each step (along with excellent illustrations) can be found on the Skep 3D web site: Mounting Holmes Stereoviews .  If you follow the instructions, you will get great views every time, assuming you had a good stereo photo to begin with. I've done it that way numerous times, but recently I decided it was time to upgrade the process and let the computer handle the detail work. The end-result of my tinkering was a procedure that uses the computer to set up and even print the final view. The results are quite impressive, despite the fact that this sample is shown at only about 1/4 of its actual resolution:
 

This particular page actually describes two approaches to making Holmes stereoviews, but most of the steps described here are common to both methods. The differences between the two methods will be described when we get to the point where you have to decide on one approach or the other.

Some Image Files You Will Need

In order to proceed from this point, you need to download the mkolmes.exe file from my web-site. Just click on the link and, when prompted for where to save the file on your system, put it in the directory that contains your stereo editing software. Once the file is on your system:

• Click on START
• Click on PROGRAMS
• Double-click on the your editing folder
• Finally, double-click on mkholmes.exe

The file is a self-extracting ZIP file that will add three image files to your stereo editing directory:

• holmescard.bmp - a blank stereoview card
• 4x6.jpg - a blank 4 x 6-inch print card
• arches.bmp - a mask for the arched tops of the image pair

You will use most these files each time you construct a stereoview. Actually, construction is a pretty good metaphor, since we will build the stereoview image from a variety of image components.

The procedures that I will describe here require a reasonably good image processing program. I will describe the steps generally as they would be executed using the Adobe PhotoShop Elements software. More comprehensive non-Adobe products tend to mimic or clone PhotoShop functions/capabilities, so you should be able to perform equivalent operations.

STEP 1. Basic Stereo Editing and Cropping (if required)

The first step is to use your basic stereo editing software to combine your image pair, correct any vertical alignment errors, and set the stereo window. This is generally easier to do using a grayscale anaglyph display. Once you have set-up the pair, save it as a side-by-side/parallel image in the JPEG format with minimal compression (highest JPEG quality). I scan my Realist slides and negatives at approximately 3000 x 3000 pixels, so the raw files are very large (40-50 Mbytes). With minimal JPEG compression, they typically "shrink to the 5-10 Mbyte range. I archive these raw files to CD-ROM.

If you have scanned realist-format negatives, positives, or prints, the individual chips (left/right images) will be almost square. In this case, you can proceed directly to Step 2.  

On the other hand, full-frame film or digital cameras will have chips in something close to a 4:3 aspect ratio:

These will have to be cropped to the square format required for the classic Holmes stereoview. To do this with StereoPhoto Maker, click through the following entries:

IMAGE => CROP => CUSTOM CROP

When asked to define the cropping window, set up for a square equal to the height of your image pair. For example, after alignment, my digital system typically creates a pair between 1704 and 1708 pixels high. I set the window to 1700 x 1700 pixels. Once you have made the selection the cropping area will be defined on the image:

Pressing and holding the left mouse button will let you slide the defined "cropping window" from side to side. When you have achieved the optimum composition, release the left button and the selected area will be automatically cropped. Once you have set-up the pair, save it as a side-by-side/parallel image in the JPEG format with minimal compression (highest JPEG quality. Here is what the stereo image will look like when you save it:

STEP 2.  Precisely Re-size the stereo pair

• OPEN the image pair with PhotoShop Elements

• Click IMAGE => RESIZE and set the image WIDTH to 1860 pixels while retaining the image aspect ratio/proportions

• Depending upon your original image size, the pair will shrink on the screen and may be quite small. To make it easier to work with, click VIEW => FIT TO SCREEN to expand its size.

STEP 3. Add the Arches

You don't really have to do these steps if you are content with basically square views. I take the time as it adds to the authentic look of the images.

• With the image still on the screen, OPEN the Arches file

• Click SELECT => ALL => EDIT => COPY to copy the arches template to the clipboard

• Click EDIT => PASTE to drop the arches onto the view

• Use the MOVE tool to slide the Arches to the top of the image:

• Use the MAGIC WAND tool to outline the red area under the left arch

• Click EDIT => CUT to remove the red area

• Repeat the previous two steps with the red area under the right arch

• Click LAYERS => MERGE DOWN

At this point you have the basic image pair you will use for both approaches to making your stereoviews.. For the moment, save the image under any convenient filename - use the JPEG format with minimal compression/highest quality.

Card Stock and Mounting Supplies

Most art-supply or picture-framing stores will stock matte board. There are also many sources that advertise on the Internet - simply run a search for archival matte board. You should select archival (acid and lignin-free) card stock for your views as you do not want them to deteriorate with age. Not all matte stock is acid-free, so check with the store when making your selection. I have the shop cut the large pieces of stock into 7-inch-wide strips. At home I use the paper cutter to shear-off 3.5 inch sections to make the individual cards. Some sources may do all the cutting for you is you order enough card stock.

I use 3M spray Photo Mount adhesive, sprayed on the back of the trimmed print,  to mount the view to the cards. I lay a piece of paper toweling on the face of the print and then use a rolling pin to smoothly apply pressure to the print. If you have sprayed the adhesive uniformly, you will get a very solid bond between the back of the print and the card face.

Method 1: Using 4 x 6 prints

Probably the easiest approach to making your cards is to have the pictures printed (4 x 6-inch format) at your local one-hour processor, trim the print, and mount it to a piece of card stock cut to the proper size.

• OPEN your image file

• Click SELECT => ALL => EDIT => COPY to copy the image to the clipboard

• Click on the upper-right corner [X] to clear the screen

• OPEN the 4x6.jpg  image file

• Click EDIT => PASTE to drop the image on the 4 x 6 layout

• Click LAYER => MERGE DOWN or FLATTEN IMAGE

• Use the TEXT functions to add a label (one side only) if desired.

• Click LAYER => MERGE DOWN or FLATTEN IMAGE

At this point the image should look something like this:

Save the image in JPEG format (minimal compression/highest quality) and take the file to your local one-hour outlet for printing like any other digital image. I also get excellent results at home using an HP Photosmart 375 printer dedicated to making 4 x 6 prints.

When you get the prints back, use a paper cutter (or an Exacto knife and a metal straight-edge) to trim 0.25 inches from the top and bottom of the print. The result should be a 3.5 x 6-inch image pair:

Mounting the Views

Leaving 1/2 inch on each side, mount the 3.5 x 6 inch print to the card stock as outlined above. The lower edge of the print should be parallel to the lower edge of the card. Use the table-top or a glass plate as an alignment tool to be sure.

Method 2. Printing the Entire Card Layout

This method requires that you have a printer that will do a high-quality job when printing photographic images on photo-quality printing paper. To see if the printer you have (or one you would like to purchase) is up to the task, look at the PRINTER NOTES section at the bottom of this page.

Here is what you need to do:

• OPEN your image
• Click SELECT => ALL => EDIT => COPY to copy the image to the clipboard.
• Clear the image from the screen
• OPEN the holmescard image file:

• Click EDIT => PASTE to drop the image onto the card
• Click LAYERS => MERGE DOWN
• Add text (if desired) under one side
• Click LAYERS => MERGE DOWN

Save the file in the JPEG format with minimal compression. You can either take the file off to your local processor and have the view printed as a 5 x 7 picture or, if your printer is up to it, print it at home. Either way, a paper cutter can be used to trim the image to 3.5 x 7 inches using the corner hatch-marks as a guide.

The 3.5 x 7 print is then mounted on the stereo card stock. In this case, the print should cover the entire card face, in contrast to the 4 x 6 prints which leave a 1/2-inch gap at each end. While this approach is somewhat more expensive on a per-card basis than using 4 x 6 prints, it is just a bit flashier and lets you include a promotional label on the card face.

PRINTER NOTES

Irrespective of the printer technology, a printer suitable for printing stereoviews must rate well in a minimum of four areas:

• Resolution. A Holmes-style viewer provides a moderate amount of magnification. As a result, any flaws or artifacts in the print will be magnified and can spoil the overall effect. To check this factor, examine sample prints with a magnifying glass. With the better photo-quality printers, the result will be similar to looking at a standard photographic print.

• Color Rendition. The goal here is to select a printer that will render color tones in the same way as a conventional color print of the same image. Bright, posterized colors are not the goal here. In evaluating a printer, factor in the color qualities of the sample image. A picture taken on a sunny day will have brighter colors than the same scene shot on a dull day, even though the proper exposure was calculated for each shot. Sample images provided at most computer stores are usually of the best quality a given printer can provide.

• Permanence. Ideally, the dyes/inks used to create the print will be reasonably resistant to fading and to smearing with normal handing.

• Availability. Here I am talking about the inks/dyes and paper you will need. I have had some excellent printers where I simply couldn't get the needed supplies except via mail order. Some brands, such as HP, paper and ink is available almost everywhere. Given the speed with which models can change, it is also important to know how long your particular printer is likely to be supported. At today's prices, a printer doesn't have to last forever to be a good return on your investment, but a few years is a reasonable expectation.

My own personal choice at this time, balancing out all these factors, the the HP Photosmart 375 printer that handles standard 4 x 6 prints. The nice thing about the photo printer situation is that the technology will certainly get better and less expensive with time.

No matter which approach you take, the result will be high-quality Holmes stereoviews. While the examples shown here have been in color, there is no reason the images could not be converted to grayscale or sepia if you wanted the most authentic appearance:

Ralph E. Taggart (gyrobee@aol.com)